It is very important to do a good job in waterproof bathroom waterproofing paint.

The bathroom is a concealed project for home decoration, and it is also a place where problems are more likely to occur in the decoration. If there is a slight carelessness, it may cause serious problems of water leakage and water accumulation. In order to avoid the trouble of waterproof maintenance in the later stage, Xiaobian reminds everyone during the renovation. Waterproofing should be taken seriously as a top priority. The most important thing in the bathroom is the problem of waterproofing. The waterproofing is not done well. It not only causes inconvenience to itself, but also affects other households. How to make the bathroom waterproof? What are the precautions for waterproofing the bathroom? Here are some questions about the waterproof coating of the bathroom. Let's take a look at it with Xiaobian!


1, JS waterproof coating

JS waterproof coating is an organic liquid material composed of a polymer emulsion such as polyacrylate emulsion, ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer emulsion and various additives, and inorganic fillers such as cement, quartz sand, light heavy calcium carbonate and various additives. The two-component, water-based building waterproof coating made of the inorganic powder by reasonable proportioning and compounding.

2, polyurethane waterproof coating

Polyurethane waterproof coating: mainly liquid, it is divided into two types: tar type and non-tar type. Non-tar type coating is a kind of bathroom waterproofing material commonly used on the market. It uses a non-tar type material as a curing agent, such as a curing agent composed of asphalt, additives and fillers. This kind of bathroom waterproof coating is divided into two groups: Group A is the curing agent, and Group B is the main component of the material. The material has stable quality, low pollution, good aging resistance, good adhesion and water absorption.

3, K11 waterproof coating

K11 waterproofing paste is a two-component flexible waterproof material. It is made of special modified polymer mixed with various additives and dry powder to obtain a flexible waterproof film. It has good adhesion to concrete and mortar base. Focus on the formation of a tight and strong waterproof coating with good durability.


4, cement mortar bathroom waterproof coating

The material is a special binder (somewhat like special glue) blended with fine cement and sand dust.

5, acrylic bathroom waterproof coating

Its application lies in environmentally friendly paints and coatings. This material is characterized by its ability to be diluted with water to a water-soluble material, and is colorless and odorless (paints can be blended with colorants as needed), but the conjunctiva is an extremely dense waterproof material.

6, polymer polymer waterproof coating

The materials are mostly made up of rubber source multi-chain polymer materials. Has good ductility and flexibility. It is colorless and tasteless and has a very good environment. However, the characteristics of his rubber source are that it has a large viscosity before it is dried. Any slight bumps and contacts are destroyed by the waterproof film, and the thickness is not brushed. After drying, it is basically transparent and the visual effect is not good.

The above is the whole content of the bathroom waterproof coating brought to you by Xiaobian. I believe that after reading this article, the small master has a basic understanding of the bathroom waterproof coating. If you want to know more about the decoration consultation, please click to enter the decoration. Process section.

More related wonderful reading:

What are the waterproof coatings for bathrooms? What is the price of bathroom waterproof coating?

Often colloquially referred to as the brand name Homset – save contractors valuable time by using .22 to .27 caliber loads to drive fasteners into tough materials, like concrete and steel. But with prices ranging from under $40 to over $400, picking the right one can be tough.

Nail guns use fasteners mounted in long clips (similar to a stick of staples) or collated in a paper or plastic carrier, depending on the design of the nailgun. Some full head nail guns, especially those used for pallet making and roofing, use long plastic or wire collated coils. Some strip nailers use a clipped head so the nails can be closer together, which allows less frequent reloading. Clip head nails are sometimes banned by state or local building codes. Full Round Head nails and ring shank nails provide greater resistance to pull out. Nailers may also be of the 'coil' type where the fasteners come in wire or plastic collation, to be used with nail guns with a drum magazine; the advantage is many more fasteners per load, but at the expense of extra weight. Industrial nailers designed for use against steel or concrete may have a self-loading action for the explosive caps, but most need nails to be loaded by hand. Nail guns vary in the length and gauge (thickness) of nails they can drive.

Air compressor supplies air into a nail gun
The smallest size of fasteners are normally 23 gauge (0.025 inches in diameter), commonly called "pin nailers" and generally having no head. They are used for attaching everything from beadings, mouldings and so forth to furniture all the way up to medium-sized (7 to 8 inch) baseboard, crown molding and casing. Lengths are normally in the range ⅜ to 1¼ in. (10 to 32 mm), although some industrial tool manufacturers supply up to 2 in. (50 mm). The 23 gauge micro pin is rapidly gaining ground as users find that it leaves a much smaller hole than brad nails, thereby eliminating the time normally taken to fill holes and presenting a far better looking finished product.

The next size up is the 18 gauge (1.02 mm diameter) fixing, often referred to as a "brad nail". These fastenings are also used to fix mouldings but can be used in the same way as the smaller 22 to 24 gauge fastenings. Their greater strength leads to their use in trim carpentry on hardwoods where some hole filling is acceptable. Most 18 gauge brads have heads, but some manufacturers offer headless fastenings. Lengths range from ⅝ in to 2 in. (16 mm to 50 mm)

The next sizes are 16 and 15 gauge (1.63 and 1.83 mm diameter). These are generally referred to as "finish nails". They come in lengths between ⅝ and 2½ in. (16 to 64 mm) and are used in the general fixing of much softwood and MDF trim work (such as baseboard/skirtings, architraves, etc.) where the holes will be filled and the work painted afterwards.

The largest sizes of conventional collated fastenings are the clipped head and full head nails which are used in framing, fencing and other forms of structural and exterior work. These nails generally have a shank diameter of 0.11 to 0.13 in. (2.9 to 3.1 mm) although some manufacturers offer smaller diameter nails as well. General lengths are in the range 2 in to 3 1⁄3 in (50 to 90 mm). Shank styles include plain, ring annular, twisted, etc. and a variety of materials and finishes are offered including plain steel, galvanized steel, sherardised steel, stainless steel, etc. depending on the pull-out resistance, corrosion resistance, etc. required for the given application. These sizes of fastenings are available in stick collated form (often 20° to 21° for full head, 28° to 34° for clipped head) or coil form (for use in pallet/roofing nailers) depending on the application. Full-head nails have greater pull-out resistance than clipped head nails[citation needed] and are mandated by code in many hurricane zones for structural framing.

Another type of fastening commonly found in construction is the strap fastening which is roughly analogous to the large head clout nail. These are used in conjunction with a strap shot nailer (or positive placement nailer UK) to fix metalwork such as joist hangers, corner plates, strengthening straps, etc. to timber structures. They differ from conventional nailers in that the point of the fastening is not sheathed so it can be exactly positioned before firing the nail gun.

Other specialist nailers are also available which can drive spikes up to 6¼ inches long, fix wood to steel, etc.

A variation on the nail gun is the palm nailer, which is a lightweight handheld pneumatic nailer that straps to the hand. It is convenient for working in tight spaces where a conventional nailer will not fit and is flexible enough to drive either short nails into metal straps or six inch nails into timber. By repeated hammer action (of around 40 hits per second) the fastener is driven into the material by a more constant palm pressure (as opposed to a conventional nailgun which drives the nail against the inertia of the nailgun).

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